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Çanakkale
If you’ve seen the movie Troy and not been too distracted by Brad Pitt’s pecs, then you will have at least an inkling of what to expect from the ancient city of Çanakkale. From there, opt to ferry across the Dardanelles to the island of Bozcaada for open-air dining, 15th-century architecture and a fine selection of boutique hotels and pensions for longer stays in traditional Mediterranean surrounds.
As of 2016, following an attempted coup, the country has been controlled by a religiously conservative president, with the result being little to no progress in the area of gay rights. Boating to Butterfly Valley from Olu Deniz or Fethiye is especially magical, not just for the resident butterflies living in and amongst the waterfalls and forests on the reserve but also for its entirely undeveloped stretch of sandy coastline sheltered between two huge cliffs.
Moving reluctantly from the beaches you’ll soon find that each town also has a lot of offer by way of lodgings, nightlife and shopping bazaars.
Before traveling to Turkey, consult with credible sources or organizations for the most up-to-date information on LGBT rights and safety concerns in the country.
Understand your rights: Familiarize yourself with the extent of legal protections, available resources, and limitations on freedom of expression, assembly, and association for LGBT individuals in Turkey.
Istanbul
There’s no time to acclimatise to Turkey’s intoxicating motif of spice and chaos as we dive straight towards the most populous city of Istanbul. While palaces are few, Ankara offers cosmopolitanism in spades, boosted by its student population and the booming restaurant scene around Kavaklidere.
Get perspective on the city with a trip up Atakule Tower, heading back down to earth for a coffee on the sidewalks of Kizilay before taking on the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations and the Anit Kabir, a monument to Turkey’s founder.
They have documented numerous attacks, often perpetrated by families or acquaintances.
Gay Turkey is marked by a dichotomy: places like Istanbul have underground gay scenes, with discreet bars and clubs dotting its winding streets, and yet, public displays of affection among same-sex couples can attract unwanted attention and even hostility.
In fact, there was a time when this beautiful country was a queer haven – at least it still is for LGBTQ people in the Middle East and in the Arab world which are home to some of the most dangerous places in the world for LGBTQ people.
We fell in love with Turkey when Sertab Erener won Eurovision in 2003 with the banger of a track “Everyway That I Am”, which became a staple in every gay club around the world.
There is a lack of comprehensive legal protections against discrimination based on gender identity, making it difficult for transgender people to seek redress in cases of injustice. LGBT advocacy groups such as KAOS GL and SPoD work to raise awareness about the challenges faced by transgender individuals and advocate for legal and societal changes to improve their lives.
Besides, same-sex couples are not allowed to adopt children or legally marry.
In recent years, the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) has taken various hostile actions against the LGBT community. The social and political climate remains volatile, and the stories of local LGBTQ+ communities can serve as a sobering reminder of the privileges many of us take for granted.
For the passionate LGBTQ+ globetrotter, the allure of Turkey’s historical marvels and natural wonders might be tempting, but it comes with an essential caveat.
Gay Istanbul
Who said one of the world's most storied cosmopolitan crossroads can't also sustain a vibrant modern LGBTQ culture? Travelers, especially those from the LGBTQ+ community, should tread with both enthusiasm and caution, savoring the sights but always staying mindful of the cultural nuances and the importance of discretion.
Adana, a gem nestled on the Seyhan River and boasting millennia of history, stands as a testament to Turkey’s unparalleled blend of ancient grandeur and modern vitality.
These may include undergoing sex reassignment surgery and sterilization.
The Turkish authorities have not been very supportive of LGBT rights, as seen in the police crackdown during Pride marches and other public events celebrating LGBT issues. Situations can change quickly, and information can become outdated.
Advocacy groups and international organizations have been urging the Turkish government to reconsider these stringent requirements and adopt more inclusive policies that would adhere to the Geneva Convention’s recommendations.
Same-sex marriage is still not recognized in Turkey, and legal protections for same-sex couples are minimal. If wet and wild sounds appealing however, it’s Göynük Canyon you’ll love most, a recreational hotspot for hiking trails, ziplining, swimming and canyoneering amid natural wilderness.
For when it gets dark, the Fire of Anatolia is sure to amuse, showcasing the skills of Turkish belly dancers, acrobats, ballerinas and fire breathers in the centre of town.
The wildlife within Kure is the real draw, however, with the park said to hold 129 bird species, 9 amphibia, 8 reptile and 48 mammal species under the cover of 930 types of plant. For instance, President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan has been targeting gay and trans people in his political campaigns since 2023, further instigating fear within the community. Fethiye meanwhile is another traditional town boasting a little more in the way of water sports, with many scuba diving centres and sailing tours running from the natural harbour and lagoon beach of Olu Deniz.
Muğla | Photo: Charbel Aoun
Fethiye | Photo: Dylan Alcock